Wear Next by Press Clare
Author:Press, Clare
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Thames & Hudson Australia Pty Ltd
Published: 2023-09-26T00:00:00+00:00
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In the intro to David Bollierâs book The Commonerâs Catalog for Changemaking, thereâs a photo of a billboard that reads: âThe next big thing will be a lot of small things.â The image is by Belgian furniture designer Thomas Lommée, famous for his OpenStructures project that makes modular designs not just freely available to anyone who cares to build them but modifiable too â âwhere different people all contribute to a bigger thing (rather than each building their own thing)â. Lommée has said that built-in obsolescence and overconsumption spurred him to act. Another way is possible.
If we accept that consumerism, and what Bollier calls âthe state/market systemâ, wonât deliver the âlessâ that the planet needs, whatâs the alternative? The practical one, if we stop short of revolution, and accept that capitalism isnât going to disappear tomorrow? Bollierâs answer is lots of different, local, commons-based solutions. âWe must imagine new and better ways of being, doing and knowing,â he writes.5 The good news? Itâs already happening.
Bollier is an author and strategist who âstudies the commons and works as an activist to protect itâ.6 He defines the commons as âa resource + a community + a set of social protocolsâ. Itâs more complex than simply âsharingâ, as you might an apartment, or lunch with a friend. Rather, the commons âis about sharing and bringing into being durable social systems for producing shareable things and activitiesâ. Core to the idea are participation, inclusion and fairness, and âenabling people to co-create a sense of purpose, meaning and belonging while meeting important needsâ. Bollier talks about âprovisioningâ, which implies sufficiency over excess and reminds me of packing to visit Carry at the beach. Note that itâs also a verb. This whole commons idea is anchored in action.
When I approached him to ask if heâd talk to me about the future of fashion, he warned me he was no expert in my field. âHowever I do have some ideas about how contemporary fashion design and commerce might be re-imagined and re-built,â he wrote in an email. Heâd been âsporadically engaged with a variety of fashion commonerâ, including Sandra Niessen and the team at Fashion Act Now, he explained.
In fact, his fashion connection goes back to 2005, when Bollier was working for the Norman Lear Center at the University of Southern California, and his colleague Laurie Racine suggested they put on an event to explore fashionâs relationship with open-source access. Generally speaking, there are no patents on standard items of clothing but, at the time, there was a push to introduce more copyrights, and Racineâs idea was âto show that intellectual property was potentially stifling, and that creativity in fashion is all about sharing and collaborationâ.7 Bollier, being someone who âalways found it wise to raise a ruckus about the first attacks on the integrity of a commonsâ, agreed to work on the conference. âIf Levi Strauss [was] granted rights in denim jeans or if Burberry were allowed to âownâ the trench coat, everyone would be hostage to a coterie of monopoly vendors selling pricey clothes,â he wrote in a blog post.
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